Scarborough Castle
Scarborough Castle stands on a cliff top overlooking the town of Scarborough, North Yorkshire, in England. The earliest castle fortifications on the site were built in the 1130s, and over the centuries several other structures were added. Today, the castle is a ruin, but still attracts many visitors to climb the battlements, take in the views and enjoy the accompanying interactive exhibition run by English Heritage.
Features
Because the castle sits atop a sheer cliff 300 feet (92 metres) high, only the south-western slopes leading up to the entrance needed to be defended; the outer thirteenth century curtain walls with their eleven hollow towers for archers[1] therefore do not completely surround the inner buildings of the castle. Even today, the castle is sometimes closed to visitors due to high winds.[2] The entranceway consists of a barbican, or fortified gateway, completed in the fourteenth century and flanked by two half-circular towers.[3]
The main building is the 86-feet-tall (26 metres) twelfth century keep, with its entrance on the first floor (i.e. the second level from the ground). Only the shell of the building has survived to this day, with the west wall missing thanks to a seventeenth century bombardment; with its roof it would have been over 100 feet tall (31 metres). The keep and the castle's 150-feet-deep (46 metres) well occupy the inner bailey (courtyard), with other remains in the outer bailey, including two chapels and the 'King's Chambers'. Unusually, the entrance leads first to the inner bailey, which would have been used for workshops, offices, a kitchen, and storage area, then the outer bailey is reached from these. Here entertaining spectacles would have been staged, vegetables grown and animals kept. The baileys are separated by a wall, ditch and bank, with two defended gateways. A second mediaeval hall was built to accommodate royal visitors, with several rooms for preparing and storing food, or private chambers.[4]
The King's Chambers, also known as Mosdale Hall after a fourteenth century governor of the castle, are a striking example of how the castle has been much-altered over the years. Originally built in the thirteenth century, it was converted to a red-brick barracks building in the eighteenth century; this is clearly visible along the much earlier stone wall, facing Scarborough's South Bay.[5] The castle itself is a replacement for a twelfth century fortification, which in turn was built over the old eleventh century Anglo-Saxon chapel. The thirteenth century Queen's Tower in the wall near Mosdale Hall also saw different uses: initially luxurious accommodation with private latrines and large windows with bay views, two of these windows were later blocked up, and another changed to a cupboard with a rubbish chute.[6]
More recently, the eighteenth century Master Gunner's House now serves as a museum including an interactive exhibition whose centrepiece is the Bronze Age sword. The castle site, managed by English Heritage since 1984, is host to various events, usually in summertime, such as pirate and Robin Hood-themed activities.[7]
History
The castle's ten centuries of history have seen it move from a major fortification in the Middle Ages to a well-loved ruin today. It played an important role in several major English events, and survived a series of major sieges as its ownership passed between rival forces; its loyalty to the Crown would ultimately lead to its destruction. The site itself was far from barren before the establishment of the castle, having hosted activities dating back thousands of years.
Early history of the site
There is some evidence of Iron Age and later settlements from around 900-500 BC,[8][9], possibly suggesting something as extensive as a full hill fort on the headland, though evidence has of this is yet to be found.[10] Among various finds dating back 2,500 years, a Bronze Age sword is on display in the castle exhibition; this is thought to have been a ritual offering.[11] The sword was discovered in 1980 at the castle and forms the centrepiece of English Heritage's £250,000 investment in making the site a strong tourist attraction.[12]
Prior to the establishment of the castle in the twelfth century, a fourth century Roman signal station stood on the site at the cliff edge to warn of approaching hostile vessels. The Anglo-Saxons built a chapel from its remains around the year 1000; these are still visible.[13] However, there is very little to show that the Roman presence at the headland was anything other than a small company; some pottery has been discovered, but nothing to suggest extensive fortification between the possible Iron Age fort and the much later mediaeval castle.[14] Neither is Scarborough mentioned in the Domesday Book (a survey or census of eleventh century England), with an Icelandic poem of the time[15] claiming that an early Viking settlement around the harbour was burnt down in 1066 by William the Conqueror's ally Harald Hardrada, who is said to have built a large bonfire on the headland to supply burning brands to hurl at the villagers below.[16] There is no archaeological evidence of such an inferno, nor any of the Viking village; the first clear evidence of the earliest town coincides with the establishment of the surviving stone castle a century later, around 1163.[17]
The early castle, 1138-1295
Little is known about the circumstances surrounding the creation of the castle: its founder was William le Gros, Count of Aumale (died 1179), a powerful Anglo-Norman baron who built the castle following his receipt of the Earldom of York from King Stephen in 1138. Some information has survived in the chronicle of William of Newburgh, a monk who wrote about the foundation of the castle in the 1190s. According to him, William le Gros built his castle of wood, with a palisade wall on the landward side, and a gate tower at the entrance.[18] This subsequently disappeared, with only a small, raised mound (the motte) visible today, in the inner bailey.[19]
The fate of these original fortifications is unclear. Henry II (reigned 1154-1189) ordered all royal castles returned to the Crown,[20] and also had a policy of destroying most of the castles built without royal permission - the so-called 'Adulterine Castles' - that had appeared during Stephen's chaotic reign. Initially, William resisted the call to hand over Scarborough, which he had built on a royal manor, until Henry's forces arrived in York. The wooden castle soon vanished - William of Newburgh, writing near the time, claimed that the structure had decayed through age and the elements, battered beyond repair on the windswept headland.[21] Later interpretations view this as implausible and argue that Henry wanted to stamp his mark on Scarborough, demolishing William's fort and creating a much stronger stone complex.[22][23]
Henry completely rebuilt the castle, including the three-storey keep which survives to this day, and a ditch and wall to protect the inner bailey. This rebuilding occurred between 1159 and 1169, creating a much stronger stone complex at the cost of £650 - a fortune in his day.[24] Both William and Henry would have recognised the economic significance of building a castle at Scarborough, as east coast ports were much in-use for trade; it is likely that Scarborough's 'Old Town' rapidly appeared around it,[25] especially once Henry granted Scarborough the status of a royal borough. The castle was an attractive assignment for would-be governors, highly sought-after by powerful nobles of the day loyal to the King.[26] Overall, Henry's interest in the castle seems to have been a strategy to weaken William's power over much of Yorkshire,[27][28] and can be seen as one story in the long struggle for power between the monarchy and the barons which occurred for two centuries after the Norman Conquest.[29]
Strife continued during the reign of King John (reigned 1199-1215), during which time the castle developed its military role. John's rule was strongly opposed by the northern barons, so the castle at Scarborough needed to be fortified as a strategic stronghold. John visited the castle only four times during his reign, but spent a considerable sum on upgrading the defences, including the curtain wall on the west and south sides, and a new hall called the 'King's Chambers', later Mosdale Hall.[30] John granted the townsfolk certain economic freedoms which ensured their loyalty to the Crown while the rest of Yorkshire turned against him; he also had a small fleet of ships stationed in the harbour below.[31][32]
Improvements continued under subsequent monarchs. In 1243-1244, Henry III installed a new barbican, or fortified gateway, plus a double drawbridge tower that has since been replaced by stone arches.[33] The barbican consists of two towers flanking the gateway, with two more towers protecting the approach. These were completed in 1343, and have been much-modified since.[34][35]
By the late thirteenth century, the defences were starting to decay, but it was still used by Edward I (reigned 1272-1307) to hold court in 1275 and 1280, and Welsh hostages from his campaigns to subjugate Wales were held at the castle. His son Edward II (reigned 1307-1327) also imprisoned some of his Scottish enemies there in 1311.[36]
Piers Gaveston besieged, 1312
Scarborough Castle's next appearance in major English history came in 1312, during the reign of Edward II. By this time, the castle was a major fortification,[37] and so was thought a natural place for the King's favourite knight, the Gascon Piers Gaveston, to seek sanctuary when pursued by the barons who had imposed the Ordinances of 1311 to curb the King's power, and who now saw Gaveston as a threat to their interests.[38] In April 1312, Edward made Gaveston the Governor of Scarborough Castle, but his tenure would be brief; in May, the Earls of Pembroke and Warren, together with Henry de Percy, besieged and took the castle. Despite its strong defences, it fell quickly due to lack of provisions. Gaveston was promised safe escort from the castle, but on the journey south was captured by the Earl of Warwick and subsequently killed. Scarborough fared little better; Edward would later punish the town for not supporting Gaveston by revoking its royal privileges and placing it under the direct rule of appointed governors.[39][40]
Further sieges, 1337-1648
The castle was besieged several times in the following centuries, playing its part in rebellions and civil war. During the Hundred Years' War (1337-1453) Scarborough was an important port for the wool trade, so was attacked several times. Henry VI would order major repairs over 1424-1429. Following assaults by France and Scotland in the early sixteenth century, in 1536 Robert Aske unsuccessfully tried to take the castle during the Pilgrimage of Grace, a revolt against the Dissolution of the Monasteries and Henry VIII's break with the Roman Catholic Church. In 1553, forces loyal to Thomas Wyatt the younger, who opposed Mary I and Catholicism, took the castle by entering disguised as peasants. Their leader, Thomas Stafford, held the castle for only three days, and was subsequently executed for high treason on Tower Hill.[41][42]
The English Civil War (1642-1651) saw the castle on the side of Charles I and the Royalists, led by Sir Hugh Cholmeley. The Parliamentarians loyal to Oliver Cromwell laid siege to the castle for five months, ultimately bombarding the site and partially destroying the keep with their artillery. The Parliamentarians set up what was then the largest cannon in the country, the Cannon Royal, in the twelfth century St. Mary's Church below the castle, and proceeded to fire 60lb (27kg) cannonballs which pounded the castle's defences. In turn, the church received extensive damage from return fire over the three days of fighting.[43]
Bombardment and the threat of starvation meant that surrender came on 25th July 1645. The castle returned to Royalist hands when its new commander, the Member of Parliament for Scarborough Sir Matthew Boynton, declared for the King, leading to a second siege which brought the castle back under Parliamentary control on 19th December 1648. Following this, the castle was used as a prison for those deemed enemies of the Commonwealth of England, the country's brief period of republicanism; the new regime ordered the keep, already badly damaged by shells, to be demolished to prevent it being used as a Royalist stronghold. The shell of the building survives, minus the west wall, which was destroyed in the bombardment. The Castle was returned to the Crown in 1662 following the restoration of the monarchy, and continued to be used as a prison; the founder of the Quakers, George Fox, was imprisoned there in 1665-1666.[44][45]
The castle refortified, 1746-1815
The Jacobite Rebellion of 1745, part of a series of uprising aimed at restoring the Catholic House of Stuart to the throne, saw the castle refortified with gun-batteries and barracks for 120 officers and men by 1746. The keep was pressed into service as a powder magazine, storing gunpowder.[46] In 1748, the Master Gunner's house was also built, which served as accommodation until the early twentieth century and today hosts the exhibition on the castle.[47][48]
The castle saw no action during this time, although during the American Revolutionary War the people of Scarborough were able to use Castle Hill as a vantage point to view a decisive sea battle between the American frigate Bonhomme Richard under John Paul Jones, and the British ships HMS Seraphis and the Countess of Scarborough.[49] Later still, the threat of French invasion during the Napoleonic Wars led to the permanent establishment of a garrison, which remained until the mid-nineteenth century; French prisoners were also held at the castle during 1796.[50][51]
The World Wars
During World War I, Scarborough was used for British propaganda purposes following the bombardment of the town by two warships of the German Empire, Derfflinger and Von der Tann, on 16th December 1914. This killed 19 people and also damaged the castle's keep, barracks and curtain walls. The barracks were demolished due to the extensive damage wrought by the bombardment.[52][53] In World War II, the castle served as a secret listening post.[54]
Footnotes
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 4).
- ↑ Warnings are given on the English Heritage official website, 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ The Heritage Trail: 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 3-5).
- ↑ 'King's Chambers'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 4).
- ↑ See the English Heritage website 'Events at this property'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 3).
- ↑ Castle Explorer: 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society (2003: 7, 13). The Society speculates that this structure, if it indeed existed, might have been the "hill-fort bay" mentioned by Ptolemy (c.90-168 AD), the Greco-Roman geographer (p.13).
- ↑ English Heritage: 'Scarborough Castle - Background Information'.
- ↑ Yorkshire Evening Post: 'A gift to the gods... and a godsend for museum'. 11th May 2005.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 1; 3).
- ↑ Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society (2003: 12, 14).
- ↑ Monsen & Smith (1989). Translation of the work of the eleventh century Icelander Snorri Sturluson.
- ↑ Goodall 2000: 22-23).
- ↑ Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society (2003: 8).
- ↑ 'Involvement of Scarborough Castle with William le Gros'.
- ↑ Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society (2003: 12, 14).
- ↑ Binns (2001: 18).
- ↑ 'Henry II's Involvement with Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Goodall (2000: 23).
- ↑ The Heritage Trail: 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Goodall (2000: 23); Walmsley (1998: 1).
- ↑ 'Involvement of Scarborough Castle with William le Gros'.
- ↑ Hinderwell (1811: 48).
- ↑ 'Henry II's Involvement with Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Dalton (2001: 1-4).
- ↑ See Bartlett (2002) and other for information on England around this period.
- ↑ Clark, (181).
- ↑ Binns (2001: 21-22).
- ↑ 'King John's Involvement with Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Castle Explorer: 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ The Heritage Trail: 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 3).
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 2).
- ↑ Rowntree (1931: 142).
- ↑ Robert Lacey: 'Piers Gaveston and Edward II'.
- ↑ Binns (2001: 32-33).
- ↑ 'Edward II and Piers Gaveston's Involvement with Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 2-3).
- ↑ St. Mary's with Holy Apostles' Church: http://www.scarborough-stmarys.org.uk/history.shtml A Brief History of St. Mary's by Stan Pope]'.
- ↑ 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 1; 3).
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 1-2).
- ↑ 'Long Time Line'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 3-4).
- ↑ 'A Filey Story: John Paul Jones and the Battle off Flamborough Head 1779'.
- ↑ English Heritage: 'Scarborough Castle - Background Information'.
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 3).
- ↑ Walmsley (1998: 2).
- ↑ 'Scarborough Castle'.
- ↑ English Heritage: 'Scarborough Castle - Background Information'.
References
- Bartlett R (2000) England Under the Norman and Angevin Kings, 1075-1225. Oxford: Oxford University Press. ISBN 0199251010.
- Binns J (2001) The History of Scarborough from Earliest Times to the Year 2000. Blackthorn. ISBN 0954630009.
- Clark GT 'Scarborough Castle'. The Yorkshire Archaeological and Topographical Journal VIII.
- Dalton P (2001) The Foundation and Development of Scarborough in the Twelfth Century. In Crouch D & Pearson T (eds) Medieval Scarborough Studies in Trade and Civic Life, Yorkshire Archaeological Society Occasional Paper 1. West Yorkshire: Yorkshire Archaeological Society & Scarborough Archaeological and Historical Society.
- Goodall JAA (2000) Scarborough Castle. London: English Heritage. ISBN 1850747865.
- Hinderwell T (1811) The History and Antiquities of Scarborough, and the Vicinity. York: Thomas Wilson & Sons.
- Rowntree A (1931) (ed.) The History of Scarborough. Letchworth: Temple Press.
- Scarborough Archaeological Society (2003) A Guide to Historic Scarborough. Scarborough: Scarborough Archaeological Society. ISBN 0902416073.
- Walmsley D (1998) 'Scarborough Castle - Information for Teachers'. English Heritage: Palladian.
External links
- Scarborough Castle - official site by English Heritage; includes suggestions for activities, opening times, and weather warnings
- Scarborough Castle - unofficial history of the castle
- Castle Explorer - Scarborough Castle - unofficial site including a brief history
- Scarborough Castle - unofficial site highlighting major figures involved in its building; includes a detailed time line and a map of the site
- The Heritage Trail - Scarborough Castle - unofficial site including a brief history and images of various sites of national heritage
- Web Aviation - aerial photographs of the castle