Fermented fish sauce: Difference between revisions
imported>Hayford Peirce (headers and TOC; put in Doug Oliver's dates -- he musta eaten a lot of fafaru to make it to 96!) |
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Cuisines around the world have used various forms of '''fermented fish sauce''' as a condiment or ingredient, since ancient times. The details of preparation can be unpalatable to some, but they basically involve fermenting seafood in salt, and obtaining distinctively flavored extracts. While they are primarily flavorings, they also can have a high protein, as well as sodium, concentration. Fermented fish products historically developed as a result of the limitations of transportation and an absence of refrigeration. Because of poor roads and slow transportation speeds, the provision of fresh fish to potential inland customers as well as storage was inhibited, and this encouraged fermentation as a preservation technique. | Cuisines around the world have used various forms of '''fermented fish sauce''' as a condiment or ingredient, since ancient times. The details of preparation can be unpalatable to some, but they basically involve fermenting seafood in salt, and obtaining distinctively flavored extracts. While they are primarily flavorings, they also can have a high protein, as well as sodium, concentration. Fermented fish products historically developed as a result of the limitations of transportation and an absence of refrigeration. Because of poor roads and slow transportation speeds, the provision of fresh fish to potential inland customers as well as storage was inhibited, and this encouraged fermentation as a preservation technique. | ||
==Europe== | |||
While many think of this as an Asian flavoring, ''garum'' was a basic element of cooking in the [[Roman Empire]], and the very British ''Worcestershire sauce'' has fermented [[anchovy|anchovies]] as one of its core components, although [[tamarind]] is another part of its distinct taste. | |||
==Roman=== | |||
The smell of ''garum'' during the process of fermentation was said to be so foul that Roman citizens were actually outlawed from making it in their own homes. Roman production occurred on an industrial scale with areas of vats set aside near fishing ports throughout their empire, for the salting and fermentation process, and the sauce transported to markets in sealed barrels. Top quality ''garum'' was typically made from the viscera and blood of [[mackerel]]. Second grade was ''muria'', made from tuna fish, and the third, 'poor mans' ''liquamen'' was made from any other fish available. According to the Roman historian, [[Pliny]], the garum made in Barcino ([[Barcelona]]) was considered the best money could buy. He even gave his name to it, Pliny Garum. | |||
===Other Mediterranean=== | |||
Other fish sauces, such as ''botarque'' and ''ostardies'', were produced in [[Italy]] and [[Greece]] in the 18th and 19th centuries. Another sauce reported to be produced in ancient Greece was ''aimeteon'', which was made from Tunny viscera and blood. | |||
===More British=== | |||
Worcestershire is actually a British modification of an Indian idea. Lea & Perrins, the best known manufacturer, keeps the exact recipe secret. Competitive sauces, such as HP, have similarities but their own distinct flavors. | |||
==Asia== | |||
[[Southeast Asia]]n kitchens and tables, however, are bare without fish sauce, and fish sauces also are common in East Asia. | |||
===Vietnam=== | |||
The basic [[Vietnamese cuisine]] term is ''nuoc mam'', but that is somewhat like saying "wine" in France; there are many distinctive preparations, and indeed some premium forms that are labeled to their place of origin, such as [[Phu Quoc]] and [[Phan Thiet]]. ''Nuoc mam nhi'' comes from the first pressing of the fish and is considered a higher-quality condiment, with lower grades perfectly adequate for cooking. | |||
Some American veterans of the [[Vietnam War]] brought back unpleasant memories, perhaps embellished with memories and storytelling, of reeking ''nuoc mam''. Other Americans, however, routinely use it and find it has only a slight smell, but potent flavoring properties different from fermented soy. | |||
===Thailand=== | |||
In [[Thai cuisine]], the term is ''nam pla'', also called "fish soy." Premium brands include "Squid", "Golden Boy", and "Tiparos". | |||
===Burma=== | |||
The Burmese version is ''ngan-pya-ye'' | |||
===Phillipines== | |||
A common Filipino name is ''batis''. Fermented shrimp is also common. | |||
===Export versions=== | |||
Begun in Thailand and finished and bottled in Hong Kong, Three Crabs is primarily exported to the United States, and contains sweetenings a more typical Asian sauce would not. | |||
==Oyster sauce and other Asian preparations== | ==Oyster sauce and other Asian preparations== | ||
Not strictly fish, but some related preparations, these more from Asia, are sauces, pastes, or dried forms of fermented [[shrimp]]. | |||
===China=== | |||
[[Oyster sauce]] is a Chinese ingredient made from fermented shellfish | |||
===Korea=== ''[[kimchi]]'' recipes often include oysters or shrimp: fresh, fermented, or dried. | |||
===Tahiti=== | |||
== | |||
Many [[Tahitian]]s enjoy ''[[fafaru]]'', a "piquant condiment"<ref>How [[Douglas L. Oliver]] (1913-2009), a noted professor of Polynesian anthropology at [[Harvard]] once described it in the course of an undergraduate class</ref> employed as a dipping sauce. Resembling clear water, it is made by placing crushed freshwater shrimp heads into a coconut gourd filled with fresh seawater, along with, perhaps, pieces of tuna fish; the coconut is then hung in the sunlight for a few days, after which the fafaru is strained and bottled. The taste is said to be surprisingly mild and agreeable, but the odor is horrendous. At many large Tahitian feasts a separate table, situated well-downwind from the other guests, is provided for those who wish dip their food into the fafaru. | Many [[Tahitian]]s enjoy ''[[fafaru]]'', a "piquant condiment"<ref>How [[Douglas L. Oliver]] (1913-2009), a noted professor of Polynesian anthropology at [[Harvard]] once described it in the course of an undergraduate class</ref> employed as a dipping sauce. Resembling clear water, it is made by placing crushed freshwater shrimp heads into a coconut gourd filled with fresh seawater, along with, perhaps, pieces of tuna fish; the coconut is then hung in the sunlight for a few days, after which the fafaru is strained and bottled. The taste is said to be surprisingly mild and agreeable, but the odor is horrendous. At many large Tahitian feasts a separate table, situated well-downwind from the other guests, is provided for those who wish dip their food into the fafaru. | ||
Revision as of 13:28, 23 January 2010
Cuisines around the world have used various forms of fermented fish sauce as a condiment or ingredient, since ancient times. The details of preparation can be unpalatable to some, but they basically involve fermenting seafood in salt, and obtaining distinctively flavored extracts. While they are primarily flavorings, they also can have a high protein, as well as sodium, concentration. Fermented fish products historically developed as a result of the limitations of transportation and an absence of refrigeration. Because of poor roads and slow transportation speeds, the provision of fresh fish to potential inland customers as well as storage was inhibited, and this encouraged fermentation as a preservation technique.
Europe
While many think of this as an Asian flavoring, garum was a basic element of cooking in the Roman Empire, and the very British Worcestershire sauce has fermented anchovies as one of its core components, although tamarind is another part of its distinct taste.
Roman=
The smell of garum during the process of fermentation was said to be so foul that Roman citizens were actually outlawed from making it in their own homes. Roman production occurred on an industrial scale with areas of vats set aside near fishing ports throughout their empire, for the salting and fermentation process, and the sauce transported to markets in sealed barrels. Top quality garum was typically made from the viscera and blood of mackerel. Second grade was muria, made from tuna fish, and the third, 'poor mans' liquamen was made from any other fish available. According to the Roman historian, Pliny, the garum made in Barcino (Barcelona) was considered the best money could buy. He even gave his name to it, Pliny Garum.
Other Mediterranean
Other fish sauces, such as botarque and ostardies, were produced in Italy and Greece in the 18th and 19th centuries. Another sauce reported to be produced in ancient Greece was aimeteon, which was made from Tunny viscera and blood.
More British
Worcestershire is actually a British modification of an Indian idea. Lea & Perrins, the best known manufacturer, keeps the exact recipe secret. Competitive sauces, such as HP, have similarities but their own distinct flavors.
Asia
Southeast Asian kitchens and tables, however, are bare without fish sauce, and fish sauces also are common in East Asia.
Vietnam
The basic Vietnamese cuisine term is nuoc mam, but that is somewhat like saying "wine" in France; there are many distinctive preparations, and indeed some premium forms that are labeled to their place of origin, such as Phu Quoc and Phan Thiet. Nuoc mam nhi comes from the first pressing of the fish and is considered a higher-quality condiment, with lower grades perfectly adequate for cooking.
Some American veterans of the Vietnam War brought back unpleasant memories, perhaps embellished with memories and storytelling, of reeking nuoc mam. Other Americans, however, routinely use it and find it has only a slight smell, but potent flavoring properties different from fermented soy.
Thailand
In Thai cuisine, the term is nam pla, also called "fish soy." Premium brands include "Squid", "Golden Boy", and "Tiparos".
Burma
The Burmese version is ngan-pya-ye
=Phillipines
A common Filipino name is batis. Fermented shrimp is also common.
Export versions
Begun in Thailand and finished and bottled in Hong Kong, Three Crabs is primarily exported to the United States, and contains sweetenings a more typical Asian sauce would not.
Oyster sauce and other Asian preparations
Not strictly fish, but some related preparations, these more from Asia, are sauces, pastes, or dried forms of fermented shrimp.
China
Oyster sauce is a Chinese ingredient made from fermented shellfish ===Korea=== kimchi recipes often include oysters or shrimp: fresh, fermented, or dried.
Tahiti
Many Tahitians enjoy fafaru, a "piquant condiment"[1] employed as a dipping sauce. Resembling clear water, it is made by placing crushed freshwater shrimp heads into a coconut gourd filled with fresh seawater, along with, perhaps, pieces of tuna fish; the coconut is then hung in the sunlight for a few days, after which the fafaru is strained and bottled. The taste is said to be surprisingly mild and agreeable, but the odor is horrendous. At many large Tahitian feasts a separate table, situated well-downwind from the other guests, is provided for those who wish dip their food into the fafaru.
References
- ↑ How Douglas L. Oliver (1913-2009), a noted professor of Polynesian anthropology at Harvard once described it in the course of an undergraduate class